The Return of the Set: Why The Curl is Back According to This Hair Expert

We’ve been knee deep in blow dry brushes, hot-air tools and photo finish high glossy hair for a good few years now, so it is not surprise there appears to be a backlash coming our way in the shape of ‘The Set’. This style is the opposite of the undone brushed out curl and wave, it oozes glamour and makes no apology for the time and effort that it takes to complete. Lead by the likes of pop princess Sabrina Carpenter, the set is making a comeback and I have to say I am here for it.

I’m from a family that come rain or shine, sickness and health attend their weekly hair appointment, my Nana had a knee replacement and on day two she had her hairdresser come into the hospital to coiffure her short style. Yet, I am known to avoid a blow dry at all costs, preferring a more natural, modern texture. This was until I started to look at old photos and realised that my undone look may feel edgy in person, but in reality it just looks like I ran out of time to get my hair done. Which, lets face it, is the opposite of the truth, as it can often take longer to achieve this look similar to quiet luxury skin or no makeup-makeup.

I like the idea that dressing up for party season means a big blow out and full on glam hair and I think we will see more celebrities like Carpenter opting for voluminous ‘dos as the trend grows. But, how can you achieve this look without your own glam squad on standby? We spoke to Tom Smith, hair stylist and trends expert about why he believes this could be the style for party season.

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Tom Smith is a hair stylist and trends expert, he is an ambassador for Olaplex and colour director at Evo Hair

What Does A Set Mean?

“A set is styling the hair using a curling iron or blow drying with a round brush, and ‘setting’ the hair while it cools on rollers or in pin curls,” Smith tells PS UK. “Traditionally this was also done by setting wet hair on rollers and heating it under a hood-dryer until completely dry.” Yep, remember those images of women sitting around the hair salon with curlers in their hair under hoods? That was the traditional way to achieve this look and is still used in some salons around the world. “A more modern approach is using a curling iron on already blow dried hair and rolling up each section and creating a ‘pin curl’ by securing the curled-up section with a small hair clip,” says Smith.

Why Is The Set Making a Comeback?

According to Smith, the trend led by the likes of Carpenter, is having a revival as we yearn for more volume. “Sets are used to create XXL volume – and bouncy, big hair is having a moment,” he tells PS UK. “It makes sense that this retro method of hairstyling is growing in popularity.”

How Can You Achieve The Set at Home?

After the pandemic many of us found ways to skip the salon, this coupled with the improvement and development of hair tools, we are less likely to have a scheduled hair appointment like previous generations. However, before you book into your nearest salon Smith says there is hope for those preferring a DIY option. “You can create curls using your curling iron and roll each section up while it’s warm and pin in place until it has completely cooled,” he tells PS UK. “Alternatively some people find using heated rollers an easier alternative.”

If you’re looking for heated rollers, I’ve personally had the Babyliss Thermo Ceramic Rollers (£50) for about ten years and I find they are the best for creating this look at home. Simply blow dry your hair as normal, ensure you smooth out the roots, then take small sections and add a heated roller. Allow to cool fully, the longer the best and then gently remove.

What Should You Consider Before Trying The Set?

You need to decide the look you want to achieve before you start. “The smaller the rollers (or tighter the pin curls) the curlier and bouncier the hair will be,” says Smith. “The larger, the more root lift combined with a smoother finish.”

This is also not a look for those who are all about the length, “Setting the hair in this way will make your hair look shorter due to the extra volume and bounce contracting your hair,” Smith tells PS UK. So, be prepared if you’re precious over every centimetre that this may not be for you.

Are There Any Styling Products Needed For The Set

As this is all about getting height in the roots, Smith recommend using a root boosting volume spray such as Evo Root Canal Volumising Spray (£25) or Olaplex Volumising Blowdry Mist (£28) “This will help to give long lasting volume and hold,” says Smith.
If you prefer a more modern finish then Smith recommends a texture spray like Sam McKnight Cool Girl Barely There Texture Mist (£12) “This will help to make the style last as long as possible and also aid with a more undone, modern result,” he says.

Lauren Ezekiel (she/her) is an associate editor at PS UK, where she writes about all things beauty and wellness. With a degree in journalism she began her career in 2008. Lauren is obsessed with skincare, hair and makeup. A mum of two, Lauren is an advocate for the benefits of beauty and self-care for your mental well-being, which inspired her award-winning charity initiative We C U 2020. Her work has been published in Grazia, OK!, Health & Beauty, The Sun, Asda, Dare and Metro.