Is Vitamin C Over? We Ask the Experts

I would like to think when it comes to skincare ingredients, I know my stuff. I’ve been in the industry for well over a decade and have attended many industry events, product briefings and even visited countless laboratories in the name of research and journalism. So when I heard Caroline Hirons, skincare expert, author and founder of Skin Rocks said it’s the end of vitamin C I nearly spat out my tea.

Vitamin C has long been known for its brightening properties as this powerful antioxidant has been clinically proven to improve texture, appearance, and overall health of skin. It has also been found that if used regularly, it can boost collagen production, improve pigmentation, brighten dull skin, and help diminish stubborn acne scars.

I for one, always notice when I stop using vitamin c in my skincare. Throughout the last five years or so I have constantly used products which contain this powerful antioxidant, from my go-to Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Serum (£165) to my favourite The Body Shop Vitamin C Gel Moisturiser (£22), the benefits for brightening dull, tired skin have seen me through two pregnancies and postpartum (when my skin took a serious battering) and beyond. It is also one of the first products I recommend to people when they ask me for a basic skincare routine or a serum to improve the overall appearance of their skin.

I had to find out more, to understand if vitamin C is truly out of favour or if this just another marketing tool. I decided to speak to Hirons, who has chosen to release a general antioxidant serum as part of her skincare arsenal, and Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ana Mansouri to find out the truth.

Experts Featured in This Article

Dr Emma Craythorne is Consultant Dermatologist at OneWelbeck Skin Health and Allergy. Dr Craythorne holds clinical posts as a Dermatological and Laser Surgeon and Mohs Micrographic Surgeon at St Thomas Hospital NHS Trust and the St Johns Institute of Dermatology at Guys. She leads the Specialist Skin Cancer Multi-Disciplinary Team

Dr Ana Mansouri is a Multi-Award-Winning Aesthetic Physician, Trainer, Key Opinion Leader, International Speaker, Expert Media Advisor & Medical Director

Caroline Hirons is a Confederation of International Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology qualified aesthetician, writer and, according to the Guardian, the “queen of skincare”.

What is Vitamin C?

“Vitamin C has been clinically proven to benefit the skin in a multitude of ways including brightening pigmentation, preventing ageing, protecting from UV damage, stimulating collagen and neutralising free radical damage,” Dr. Ana Mansouri tells PS UK. “It also gives a radiant glow to the skin.” As well as improving the appearance of the skin, Dr Emma Craythorne explains how it also benefits the deeper layers of the skin and its chemical makeup.

“Vitamin C is a super powerful antioxidant that has been shown to regenerate other antioxidants within the body, including vitamin E,” explains consultant dermatologist, Dr. Emma Craythorne. “When used topically, it has the ability to act as an antioxidant to reduce skin ageing as well as improving collagen synthesis and the regulation of pigmentation,” she adds.

What Should You Consider When Using Vitamin C?

“Vitamin C is most effective as a thin serum however, it’s a very delicate and unstable molecule,” warns Dr Mansouri. “It needs certain characteristics to be able to effectively penetrate and work on the deeper skin layers to have the desired effect.” She also warns that it may not work for all skin types. “Vitamin C can sometimes be irritating for the skin especially for sensitive skin types,” she says.

This is why Hirons decided to move away from this popular ingredient when developing Skin Rocks’ new serum. “While vitamin C has long been hailed for its antioxidant properties, it’s just one piece of the puzzle,” Hirons tells PS UK. “One of the primary concerns with traditional forms of vitamin C in skincare is its stability. Vitamin C, particularly in its pure form (ascorbic acid), can be unstable and prone to oxidation, which can diminish its effectiveness.”

It is this oxidation, according to Hirons which compromises its effectiveness. “Oxidation of vitamin C is a chemical reaction where vitamin C loses electrons when exposed to oxygen,” she tells PS UK. “This process changes the structure of vitamin C, reducing its effectiveness and potentially making it less beneficial for the skin.”

Vitamin C is an “unstable” ingredient in skincare and this means it can easily breakdown or lose its effectiveness when exposed to certain conditions. “This can be a result of too much air which can cause ‘oxidation,’ or light which can degrade its potency and heat,” she tells PS UK. “Vitamin C is one of the trickier ingredients to formulate with so it needs to be carefully formulated and packaged to be protected.”

This is why dermatologists like Dr Mansouri and Dr. Craythorne recommend that if you are going to use vitamin C, and see results, it should be only considered from high-end reputable brands. “As a clinician, I recommend SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic because it contains vitamin C and additional antioxidants, such as vitamin E, which work synergistically to help to provide more antioxidant protection. Ferulic acid is also included in the formula to help stabilise the high dosage of vitamin C.”

Who Would Benefit from Switching to an Alternative to Vitamin C?

If this debate has sparked interest in your mind and you think you may benefit from a general antioxidant formula rather than take a risk with a cheap vitamin c serum (which doesn’t provide many of the skin benefits and quality could deteriorate over time) then it may be worth looking at alternatives like Skin Rocks The Antioxidant (£70). Hirons believes lots of people could benefit from the switch, but particularly city-dwellers whose skin is impacted by daily environmental factors such as pollution and anti-aging concerns. It may also be worth considering if you have found vitamin C can irritate skin.

This power serum contains a blend of potent ingredients that work to provide a broader spectrum of protection against environmental stressors. “The advanced Antioxidant formula combines a highly stable, effortlessly-absorbed form of vitamin C amplified by acetyl zingerone,” says Hirons. “A next-generation antioxidant, alongside acetyl tetrapeptide-2 and green tea extract to enhance performance and provide supreme environmental protection. It is also formulated with THDA (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate), a vitamin C precursor renowned for its stability and great affinity for skin.”

However, if you can’t bear to part with your vitamin C just yet, worry not. “Many antioxidant serums also contain Vitamin C along with other antioxidants to enhance the formula,” she explains. “If your skin is already accustomed to Vitamin C, you should be fine.”

Lauren Ezekiel is an associate editor at PS UK, where she writes about all things beauty and wellness. With a degree in journalism and 12 years’ experience as a beauty editor at a leading Sunday supplement, she is obsessed with skincare, hair and makeup, and is often found offering advice to innocent bystanders. Her work has been published in Grazia, OK, Health and Beauty, The Sun, ASDA, Dare and Metro.