Millennials rejoice! Much like the return of the side parting, the beauty world is circling back to the one and only makeup look we managed to master – the winged liner. Yes this simple eye look that takes one product, zero blending, baking, or contouring is looking like the ultimate beauty trend for winter 2024 and beyond.
At the British Fashion Awards this week we saw a plethora of celebrities sporting the style from Ashley Graham to Paloma Faith, Ellie Goulding and Nicola Roberts – the wing shape may have varied but it was very much the look du jour with contoured eye shadow taking a firm back seat.
If you’ve forgotten how to create the perfect wing or this is your first time using eyeliner in this way then you’re in luck. I spoke to celebrity makeup artist Lan Nguyen-Grealis, the maestro behind Faith’s look on the night and the woman behind Raye’s iconic makeup, for all her top tips to pulling off the look at home.
Experts Featured in This Article
Lan Nguyen-Grealis is a celebrity and editorial makeup artist, she is also the author of two books; Art & Makeup and Prom Makeup Design
What Is Winged Eyeliner?
“The revival of the winged liner is all about emphasising the eyes,” says Lan Nguyen-Grealis, celebrity makeup artist. “It gives longer, wider, sexier eyes without all the fuss of an eyeshadow.” As we enter party season and our social calendars fill up, the idea of a no-fuss makeup look is very appealing. “It’s an effortless statement that can be easily played up or down without too much work and compliments every eye shape,” she told PS UK. “It can been seen as youthful glamour, but with a modern edge or depending on the shape and width.”
As someone who has just about mastered concealer and has never managed to pull off any eyeshadow look, this all sounds great to me, but I have often wondered what type of wing would suit my eye shape. “It’s all about definition and bringing out the natural structure,” Lan told PS UK. “You want your wing to gives the illusion of thicker lashes too.”
What Type of Winged Eyeliner Suits Your Eye Shape?
According to Nguyen-Grealis, eyeliner suits almost everyone, but the style, thickness, and colour should be chosen based on the individual eye shape. She has this quick guide:
Almond Eyes
Most eyeliner styles work well, including winged eyeliner.
Round Eyes
Focus on elongating the eyes with a wing.
Hooded Eyes
A thin line close to the lash line or tight-lining, when you apply eyeliner to the upper waterline, works best.
Monolid Eyes
A thicker line or smoked-out liner enhances definition.
Upturned Eyes
Balance the natural shape with a subtle wing.
Downturned Eyes
A wing that lifts upwards creates a flattering look.
How to Create the Perfect Winged Eyeliner
You now know the shape for you, but how an earth do you apply it like the pros? I grilled Nguyen-Grealis for her top tips to creating the perfect wing.
“First start by preparing the eyes,” she told PS UK. “This is done by making sure you cleanse and moisturise your eyelids, then apply primer or a bit of concealer to keep the liner from smudging.”
If you have oily eyes or find that your makeup smudges easily Nguyen-Grealis recommends adding a touch of powder too as this will help it last longer and avoid transfer on to hooded eyelids.
“My top tip is to use dots or small dashes along the lash line and connect them, rather than trying to achieve a line in one go,” she says. “Hold your eyelid taut with one hand and start from the inner corner and work outward in short strokes adjusting the thickness gradually.”
When it comes to creating the wing itself, she recommends drawing a line extending from the outer corner upwards, “Connect the tip of the wing back to the lash line, forming a triangle,” she explains. “Fill in the triangle and refine edges with a cotton swab if needed.”
To give your liner staying power, Ngyuen-Grealis recommends using a matching eyeshadow to set pencil or gel liners for longevity. “For shaky hands, rest your elbow on a flat surface while applying or use tape or flat straight edged card or surface to map the line if necessary,” she adds.
If you find your eyes look dull then she recommends adding a white or nude liner on the waterline to brighten the eyes.
Lan Nguyen-Grealis’s Eyeliner Recommendations
When it comes to eyeliner Nguyen-Grealis recommends the following –
Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eyeliner (£21)
Benefit Roller Liner (£17, originally £23)
Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil (£20)
Mac Pro Longwear Fluid Eyeliner in Backtrack (£20)
Lauren Ezekiel (she/her) is an associate editor at PS UK, where she writes about all things beauty and wellness. With a degree in journalism she began her career in 2008. Lauren is obsessed with skincare, hair and makeup. A mum of two, Lauren is an advocate for the benefits of beauty and self-care for your mental well-being, which inspired her award-winning charity initiative We C U 2020. Her work has been published in Grazia, OK!, Health & Beauty, The Sun, Asda, Dare and Metro.