The high fashion couture season of 2023 is officially in full swing and with it, a whole lot of political controversy that we shouldn’t be surprised by. Fashion, after all, has society in a chokehold.
When it comes to aesthetic representation of the current conversation, fashion is at the forefront — whether we like it or not. And if not — it might be time to revisit that cerulean sweater scene in “The Devil Wears Prada” for a not-so-subtle reminder that we are all impacted by the fashion industry.
And this year, we can’t help but notice the life-size animal imagery that’s creating some of the most iconic moments in Paris and New York Fashion Weeks so far.
First, we saw Kylie Jenner in a dress so hot off the runway that it hadn’t even walked down it yet. At the Schiaparelli show, Jenner swanned into the Petit Palais wearing a black velvet one-arm gown, with a full-sized and extremely realisitic lion’s head jutting from the side. It was giving Aslan-chic — Narnia, but fashion.
Next, inspired by Dante Alighieri’s “The Divine Comedy”, this collection had three faux-taxidermy looks that had the internet divided — a wolf coat, a snow leopard dress, and Jenner’s lion gown — modelled by Naomi Campbell, Shalom Harlow and Irina Shayk respectively on the runway.
Made entirely by hand, using wool, silk, and “foam, resin, and other manmade materials,” according to a press release from the fashion house, the animal heads are brilliantly crafted to look like the real thing. Further, in the caption of a video compilation of Jenner wearing the dress posted to the brand’s Instagram, a disclaimer reads, “Nothing is as it appears to be in Schiaparellis Inferno Couture … NO ANIMALS WERE HARMED IN MAKING THIS LOOK.”
This note, appearing underneath all three of the faux-taxidermy looks, didn’t stop digital onlookers from taking their outrage to the comment section.
A wildlife filmmaker and zoologist, Dan O’Neill, commented, “We have to stop showing animals as luxury ‘products’: They may be made from foam, but these are endangered species that have historically been killed for their pelts to be turned into garments.”
Model Erika Aurora commented, “I understand the effort put into building every single element, but seeing the images I have a strong pain and displeasure for the message you are sending. Am I the only one?”.
She wasn’t. While few were in awe and inspired by the pieces, the majority were distraught and uncomfortable, and, as activist and performer, Cocovan, commented, felt as though it was an “ad for poaching”.
These comments raise valid concerns and an important conversation. Animal products in fashion, particularly fur coats and accessories, have been seen as a symbol of wealth and status. Dating back to as early as the 11th century, it was common for European to wear animal heads, tails, coats, capes and other accessories made from mink, sable, and chinchilla fur.
This idea, of animals being poached in the name of wealth and status — is one that doesn’t align with the ethical morals, ideals and practises of today. Not only do we have less tolerance for excessive displays of wealth and status, but we also have a greater understanding and respect for our environment and its preservation — which includes animals.
Brands such as Melbourne-based Unreal Fur — a faux fur and leather brand that champions environmental ethics — have risen to the forefront of the ethical fashion movement, becoming the go-to for shoppers who want the lush feel of fur without the questionable processes.
And while the brand themselves are strongly against animal cruelty, Jack Tuftie, Brand Manager of Unreal Fur, says that the luxury and extravagance of fur is still very much alive, and deserves its moment.
“Fashion is art and about creating,” Tuftie tells POPSUGAR Australia.
“Although we are a brand that take pride in being animal cruelty-free, we highly value artistic expression. We’d be hesitant to dull a designers’ artistic voice and no animals were harmed in the making of Schiaparellis looks. You have the right to think it’s hideous, but it did it’s job — it got my attention.”
Thinking on the original inspiration for Schiaparelli’s “Inferno Couture”, the thought behind the designs is clear. Inspired by Dante’s “Inferno” — the first of three parts that make up “The Divine Comedy” — involves three beasts that stop Dante from entering heaven. Representing three different sins, they are — you guessed it! — a leopard, a lion and a she-wolf.
The leopard, representing lust, is described as beautiful and not scary. The lion is described as enormous and represents pride. The she-wolf appears to be wasting away and represents greed.
Clearly, these characters spoke to Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s artistic director, for us to interpret how we choose. And that’s the beauty of art, right? It means different things to different people.
While fur might feel like ‘luxury’ to you, something that socially signifies class and perhaps could be portrayed as sinful, the lion’s head might make you feel strong and powerful — like some kind of religious symbol or an animal that you simply feel a connection with. Fashion is supposed to make you feel something, after all.
“What does wearing something signify?” asks Tuftie. “It could be something culturally ingrained, a luxury, a privilege, something that says ‘I worked for this’. But wearing luxe materials like fur means different things for different people. For me, on a personal level, I like to wear things ironically. Like, wearing a fur coat to the supermarket. I know people will look at me weirdly, but that’s the whole thing.”
It might be that fur and animal imagery makes you feel sick, reminding you of all the animals that have been harmed unethically, in the name of luxury products, medicines and food. That’s okay, too.
“It’s totally understandable if you don’t want to wear anything that resembles an animal,” Henrietta Deller-Blue, E-commerce Manager for Unreal Fur, tells POPSUGAR Australia.
“Wearing fur of any kind might feel uncomfortable for some people, which is a personal choice. I can really understand the feelings and reactions that have come out of the Schiaparelli show, but that’s what good fashion is about. A conversation.”
Other shows embraced animal themes, like Chanel’s plywood menagerie set, courtesy of the artist Xavier Veilhan, giving more Mad Hatter’s Tea Party energy, than realistic animal museum vibes. But still — a clear animal theme.
Then, we have Julia Fox strutting up a storm in NYC, en route to the Wiederhoeft Spring Summer 2023 show, wearing the designer’s SS/23 Poodle Dress.
And, while this dress caused a whole lot less of a stir than Schiaparelli’s couture designs, it still centres around an animal.
“Poodles always change their hair and it’s full camp, and that’s Julia Fox,” says Tuftie.
This look can be seen as something that resembles make-believe. It’s less realistic, more fun and “camp”, like Tuftie said, which takes it out of direct criticism. This design is viewed as something that comes from the designers’ imagination — which makes it more digestible.
However, Fox doesn’t shy away from boundary-pushing animal imagery in her looks. The other night, she was spotted wearing a tail that resembles a horse’s, attached to leather ass-less chaps and paired with her beloved Thom Browne “Fox” Bag en route to a NYFW event.
And generally, she doesn’t shy away from textures like fur, fluff or leather either.
I think we can all agree that Julia Fox is very much at the forefront of cutting-edge fashion right now. By making bold choices, she’s inviting us to converse, debate, argue, agree, disagree and be inspired by what it means to express creativity through fashion.
And clearly, it’s become undeniable that animal themes and imagery are a high-fashion trend this year. To have started off the fashion year with such strong animal motifs will likely see them permeate through all levels of the fashion industry in 2023, from design houses to local fashion brands.
Collina Strada’s RTW Fall/Winter 2023-2024 show at New York Fashion Week, the use of environmentally-friendly prosthetics were a big talking point.
Isamaya Ffrench and Collina Strada came together to morph models into into dolphins, rabbits, dogs, and other members of the animal kingdom for Strada’s collection “Please Don’t Eat My Friends”.
Inspired by the ecosystem that unites all creatures, big and small, the idea was to morph the human, the animal and the fantastical, to show just how connected we all are.
It was weird, extremely impressive, slightly sickening and very imaginative. It almost felt too “fun” for a NYFW show. But here we are, talking about it.
“Fashion should be fun,” says Tuftie, “it’s whatever you want it to be.”
“I think people are becoming so much bolder with their choices. It’s like, we came out a pandemic where we wore athleisurewear all day — and IDK about you — but I haven’t seen many leggings recently. I would’ve looked at one of our hot pink faux fur jackets a few years ago and thought ‘that’s someone going to Burning Man’ but now, it could be anyone. Fashion is changing and evolving, we’re becoming more individualistic and I think we can get a bit creative and subversive with it.”
So, whether you agree with the animal trend that is emerging in high fashion world right now or not — go with how you feel. Talk about it. Be loud. Challenge yourself to shout your opinions through the clothes that you wear.
You never know — it might be you dividing the internet soon.
