Kate and Laura Mulleavy introduced Rodarte‘s Fall 2020 collection to showgoers at St. Bartholomew’s church in New York City among white flowers and candlelight, setting the tone with the label’s signature ambience. Guests were hushed before the first model, Bella Hadid, clacked her brooch-adorned heels along the tiled floors, creating an echo. And as if to set the storyline in stone, the next few looks carried out the exact same aesthetic: a glamorous ’50s vibe. Modest pleated dresses with poufed shoulders and cinched waists came in polka-dot or plaid, a print we’re seeing plenty of for Fall. Shortened veils sat atop many of the models’ heads, like fascinators. (Later we would find these veils were only foreshadowing what was to come: the most glamorous Rodarte bride we could ever imagine.)
The lineup took a sharp turn to a glam cherry bomb ’80s moment, with sequined pant sets we could easily picture on Elle Fanning. But floral, appliquéd, sheer midi dresses slowly brought us back to the romance at Rodarte’s core. We saw (and heard!) strands of fringe shake as models outfitted in fully beaded looks took the runway, and everyone’s eyes sparkled as a white glittered coord set impressed Winter brides in the room who were still in need of an afterparty look.
Gothic elements were introduced in the form of dark hooded capes and tiered gowns with spiderweb-like circles of sequins swirling on the bodice. Though these all-black moments were unexpected – especially right before we were presented with a bright burst of caped, floral maxi gowns we’d wear on a lavish vacation – they somehow fit right into a collection that remains fluid for its whimsy. No matter what color a Rodarte dress is, it is always enchanting.
Of course, the look everyone will be talking about is the vintage-inspired bridal gown, a satin number somewhere in between Champagne and ivory with a baby-blue print and a floor-sweeping, 20-foot train that went on and on for one very long, magical moment. For the grand finale, the models took one final walk around the church and then took their places alongside the Rodarte bride, each one of them presenting a unique idea of femininity and beauty. But really, is it possible to pick a favorite?
Related: Bella Hadid Closed Oscar de la Renta in a Hot Pink Feathered Cape You'll Need to See to Believe